Xewkija, Gozo: Gozo’s Historic Heart

By Kerry Gaffney | Last Updated 27/01/2026

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Why Visit Xewkija, Gozo?

Historically described as a ‘thorny wasteland’, and with its name deriving from ‘xewk’, the Maltese word for thorns. Xewkija, pronounced she-w-KEE-ya, is Gozo’s oldest and one of its most characterful villages. Famed for the colossal Rotunda of St John the Baptist, which boasts one of the world’s largest unsupported domes and can be spotted from various locations across the island. This church can seat 3,000 worshippers, which is pretty much the entire village population. 

However, Xewkija’s appeal goes far beyond its iconic skyline. Here, you’ll discover a warm, authentic Gozitan welcome, winding lanes lined with honey-coloured stone houses, ancient chapels, and a vibrant village square at the heart of local life. Xewkija is perfectly placed for exploring Gozo: close to Victoria, the ferry, and some of the island’s best countryside and swimming spots, including the stunning Mgarr ix-Xini bay, where Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie shot By The Sea. Whether you’re a history lover, a foodie, or just seeking a peaceful base with easy access to all of Gozo, Xewkija delivers a memorable island experience.

Where to Stay in Xewkija 

Xewkija offers a range of accommodation, from boutique hotels to family-run guesthouses and charming B&Bs, all within easy reach of the village square and Rotunda.

Xewkija offers a range of accommodation, from boutique hotels to family-run guesthouses and charming B&Bs, all within easy reach of the village square and Rotunda.

Top picks include:

• Quaint Boutique Hotel Xewkija: A stylish, modern hotel right on the main square, with air-conditioned rooms, free WiFi, and excellent on-site dining, including Giovanni’s Kitchen & Lounge and Shangri-la Chinese Cuisine.
  
  
• Xeuchia Accommodation: Beautifully renovated rooms above a restaurant, just steps from the Rotunda. Guests praise the friendly hosts, complimentary wine, and hearty breakfasts.
  
  
• Mariblu Hotel: A well-reviewed, family-run guesthouse with spotless rooms, friendly service, and a pool, located a short walk from the centre.
  
  
• Thistle Lodge: Offers a peaceful stay close to the village core, with spacious, impeccably clean rooms, generous breakfasts, plus a pool.
  
  
• Townhouse17 Boutique B&B: Modern, comfortable rooms near the bus station and citadel, with a rooftop pool and excellent breakfast.
  

For those seeking a more independent stay, Xewkija also has holiday homes, farmhouses, and apartments, and some with private pools.

Things to Do in Xewkija

As the island’s oldest village Xewkija boasts a fascinating history but even if you’re not a history buff this village packs variety with its iconic Rotunda church, windmill, and easy access to Gozo’s best walks and eateries,

• Marvel at the Rotunda: Step inside the awe-inspiring Church of St John the Baptist, visit the Sculpture Museum to see the original 17th-century church’s art and masonry and take a lift to the dome to enjoy awe-inspiring views across Gozo.
  
  
• Explore historic chapels and windmills: Visit the ancient Tal-Hniena Chapel and the Knights-era windmill, which was fully restored and re-opened in 2021.
  
  
• Relax at Mgarr ix-Xini: This tranquil bay is ideal for swimming, snorkelling, or a peaceful walk. It’s also a filming location for By the Sea, and the upcoming BBC drama, Two Weeks in August.
  
  
• Join a tour: Jeep safaris, quad bike adventures, and boat trips often include Xewkija as a highlight, letting you explore Gozo’s hidden corners and coastal beauty. Or take the hop-on, hop-off tour to get a feel for the whole island in one day.
  
  
• Enjoy local events: Experience Xewkija’s lively festas, especially the Feast of St John the Baptist in June, with fireworks, processions, and village celebrations.
  
  
• Try Gozo Alpaca Walks: For something unique, meet friendly alpacas and enjoy a guided walk through the countryside.
  

Where to Eat and Drink in Xewkija

Xewkija has a great dining scene, centred around the village square. You’ll find plenty of options that are both friendly and local, which cater for every taste and almost all offer a wonderful view of the Rotunda.

• Giovanni’s Kitchen & Lounge (at Quaint Boutique Hotel): Modern Mediterranean cuisine in a stylish setting.

• Shangri-la Chinese Cuisine: Authentic Chinese dishes, also at Quaint Boutique Hotel.

• Mariblu Restaurant & Pizzeria: A little distance from the village square, this family-run place is well-loved for its pizzas and local dishes, and its relaxed vibe.
  
  
• Universal Sport Westend Bar & Restaurant: A local favourite right next door to Gozo’s Football Stadium for hearty meals and a welcoming atmosphere. It’s perfect for anyone who wants to catch some sporting action while you are on Gozo.
  
  If you’re a football fan, and in particular a Liverpool fan. Don’t miss Gozo’s Official Liverpool Supporters Club. Opened by the legendary goalkeeper, Bruce Grobbelaar, it’s a great place to catch a game. 
  

For a change of scene, Victoria’s restaurants and cafes are just a few minutes away by car or bus or head down to the harbour in Għajnsielem, which has some excellent dining options. 

How to Get to and Around Xewkija, Gozo

To get to Gozo, you first have to get to Malta, from there you have a few options on how to make your way across to the smaller island but almost all of them will involve catching a ferry, unless you have access to a private boat.

From Malta:

• By Ferry: Take the Gozo Channel Ferry from Ċirkewwa (Malta) to Mgarr Harbour (Gozo)—a scenic 25-minute crossing.
  
  
• By Highspeed Ferry: Foot passengers can also take the Gozo Highspeed Ferry from Valletta’s Grand Harbour, reaching Gozo in about 45 minutes.
  

There are pros and cons to both ferry options, take our quick quiz to see which Gozo ferry is the best one for you.

From Mgarr Harbour:

Once you arrive in Gozo, it’s very easy to get around as the island is so small. Check out our guide on how to get around Gozo for our top tips.  

As with every village in Gozo, getting around Xewkija is pretty easy. 

• By taxi or ride-hailing: Bolt, eCabs, and Uber are convenient for short hops or late-night returns.

• On Foot: The village is compact and walkable, with most sights just minutes from the main square.
  

• By Bus: Xewkija is well-connected to Victoria, Mgarr, and other villages via Malta Public Transport’s clean, reliable buses. Download the Tallinja app for routes and schedules.
  

• By Car: Car hire is available at the ferry port and in Victoria. Driving is straightforward, but watch for narrow village streets.
  

• By Bike or Scooter: Several rental shops in Victoria and Xewkija offer bikes, e-bikes, and scooters—an adventurous way to explore, though Gozo is hilly.
  

Plan Your Trip to Xewkija

• Book accommodation early if visiting during festa season or summer.
  
  
• Check ferry and bus schedules in advance, especially if arriving late.
  
  
• Pack comfortable shoes for exploring the village and countryside.
  
  
• Don’t miss the Rotunda, windmill, and Mgarr ix-Xini—and leave time to simply soak up the local atmosphere in the main square.
  
  
• Explore more: Use Xewkija as a base for day trips to Gozo’s beaches, temples, and hidden gems.
  

For more inspiration and practical tips, explore our full Gozo guides and start planning your Xewkija adventure today!

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