Xewkija, Gozo: The Local’s Guide
By Kerry Gaffney | Last Updated 07/06/2026
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Why Visit Xewkija, Gozo?
Xewkija is Gozo’s oldest village, though you wouldn’t necessarily guess it from the square. The Rotunda of St John the Baptist dominates everything, one of the largest unsupported domes in the world, built by the villagers themselves over several decades, and visible from almost anywhere on the island. Standing inside it for the first time tends to stop people in their tracks.
The square around it is one of the better ones on Gozo for eating and drinking. Giovanni’s Kitchen at the Quaint Hotel is reliable for something more considered, Vini e Capricci by Abraham’s is excellent for deli grazing and themed dining evenings, and the Universal Sport Bar is where you go if there’s a match on. Every July the square hosts the Gozo edition of the Malta International Food Festival, which brings in producers and street food from across the islands and is a good evening out.
The walk down to Mġarr ix-Xini from the village is worth doing if you have the legs for it, the bay is sheltered, beautiful, and relatively quiet compared to Gozo’s more accessible beaches. It was used as a filming location for both By the Sea and Two Weeks in August, which gives it an added layer of interest if you know what to look for.
However, Xewkija’s appeal goes far beyond its iconic skyline. Here, you’ll discover a warm, authentic Gozitan welcome, winding lanes lined with honey-coloured stone houses, ancient chapels, and a vibrant village square at the heart of local life. Xewkija is perfectly placed for exploring Gozo: close to Victoria, the ferry, and some of the island’s best countryside and swimming spots, including the stunning Mgarr ix-Xini bay, where Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie shot By The Sea. Whether you’re a history lover, a foodie, or just seeking a peaceful base with easy access to all of Gozo, Xewkija delivers a memorable island experience.
Where to Stay in Xewkija
Xewkija offers a range of accommodation, from boutique hotels to family-run guesthouses and charming B&Bs, all within easy reach of the village square and Rotunda.
Xewkija offers a range of accommodation, from boutique hotels to family-run guesthouses and charming B&Bs, all within easy reach of the village square and Rotunda.Top picks include:
- Quaint Boutique Hotel Xewkija: A stylish, modern hotel right on the main square, with air-conditioned rooms, free WiFi, and excellent on-site dining, including Giovanni’s Kitchen & Lounge and Shangri-la Chinese Cuisine.
- Xeuchia Accommodation: Beautifully renovated rooms above a restaurant, just steps from the Rotunda. Guests praise the friendly hosts, complimentary wine, and hearty breakfasts.
- Mariblu Hotel: A well-reviewed, family-run guesthouse with spotless rooms, friendly service, and a pool, located a short walk from the centre.
- Thistle Lodge: Offers a peaceful stay close to the village core, with spacious, impeccably clean rooms, generous breakfasts, plus a pool.
- Townhouse17 Boutique B&B: Modern, comfortable rooms near the bus station and citadel, with a rooftop pool and excellent breakfast.
For those seeking a more independent stay, Xewkija also has holiday homes, farmhouses, and apartments, and some with private pools.
Things to Do in Xewkija
As the island’s oldest village Xewkija boasts a fascinating history but even if you’re not a history buff this village packs variety with its iconic Rotunda church, windmill, and easy access to Gozo’s best walks and eateries,
- Marvel at the Rotunda: Step inside the awe-inspiring Church of St John the Baptist, visit the Sculpture Museum to see the original 17th-century church’s art and masonry and take a lift to the dome to enjoy awe-inspiring views across Gozo.
- Explore historic chapels and windmills: Visit the ancient Tal-Hniena Chapel and the Knights-era windmill, which was fully restored and re-opened in 2021.
- Relax at Mgarr ix-Xini: This tranquil bay is ideal for swimming, snorkelling, or a peaceful walk. It’s also a filming location for By the Sea, and the upcoming BBC drama, Two Weeks in August.
- Join a tour: Jeep safaris, quad bike adventures, and boat trips often include Xewkija as a highlight, letting you explore Gozo’s hidden corners and coastal beauty. Or take the hop-on, hop-off tour to get a feel for the whole island in one day.
- Enjoy local events: Experience Xewkija’s lively festas, especially the Feast of St John the Baptist in June, with fireworks, processions, and village celebrations.
- Try Gozo Alpaca Walks: For something unique, meet friendly alpacas and enjoy a guided walk through the countryside.
Where to Eat and Drink in Xewkija
Xewkija has a great dining scene, centred around the village square. You’ll find plenty of options that are both friendly and local, which cater for every taste and almost all offer a wonderful view of the Rotunda.
- Giovanni’s Kitchen & Lounge (at Quaint Boutique Hotel): Modern Mediterranean cuisine in a stylish setting.
- Shangri-la Chinese Cuisine: Authentic Chinese dishes, also at Quaint Boutique Hotel.
- Mariblu Restaurant & Pizzeria: A little distance from the village square, this family-run place is well-loved for its pizzas and local dishes, and its relaxed vibe.
- Universal Sport Westend Bar & Restaurant: A local favourite right next door to Gozo’s Football Stadium for hearty meals and a welcoming atmosphere. It’s perfect for anyone who wants to catch some sporting action while you are on Gozo.
If you’re a football fan, and in particular a Liverpool fan. Don’t miss Gozo’s Official Liverpool Supporters Club. Opened by the legendary goalkeeper, Bruce Grobbelaar, it’s a great place to catch a game.
For a change of scene, Victoria’s restaurants and cafes are just a few minutes away by car or bus or head down to the harbour in Għajnsielem, which has some excellent dining options.
How to Get to and Around Xewkija, Gozo
To get to Gozo, you first have to get to Malta, from there you have a few options on how to make your way across to the smaller island but almost all of them will involve catching a ferry, unless you have access to a private boat.
From Malta:
- By Ferry: Take the Gozo Channel Ferry from Ċirkewwa (Malta) to Mgarr Harbour (Gozo)—a scenic 25-minute crossing.
- By Highspeed Ferry: Foot passengers can also take the Gozo Highspeed Ferry from Valletta’s Grand Harbour, reaching Gozo in about 45 minutes.
There are pros and cons to both ferry options, take our quick quiz to see which Gozo ferry is the best one for you.
From Mgarr Harbour:
Once you arrive in Gozo, it’s very easy to get around as the island is so small. Check out our guide on how to get around Gozo for our top tips.
As with every village in Gozo, getting around Xewkija is pretty easy.
- By taxi or ride-hailing: Bolt, eCabs, and Uber are convenient for short hops or late-night returns.
- On Foot: The village is compact and walkable, with most sights just minutes from the main square.
- By Bus: Xewkija is well-connected to Victoria, Mgarr, and other villages via Malta Public Transport’s clean, reliable buses. Download the Tallinja app for routes and schedules.
- By Car: Car hire is available at the ferry port and in Victoria. Driving is straightforward, but watch for narrow village streets.
- By Bike or Scooter: Several rental shops in Victoria and Xewkija offer bikes, e-bikes, and scooters—an adventurous way to explore, though Gozo is hilly.